Supporting The Board Game Designers Forum

Supporting The Board Game Designers Forum
Supporting The Board Game Designers Forum

OK, You have used the Board Game Designers Forum and you actually find it useful. You may be wondering, ‘How can I help out?’. Well, I’m glad you asked. Here are some ways you can ‘pitch in’.

Refer your friends to the BGDF. Post links to us on other websites. The more people that visit us the better.
Participate! Add downloads of software that you use to design your board games. Write articles! Add links to websites in the links maduras lesbianas section. Post threads in the discussion forum, join us for chat. This forum is nothing but 1’s and 0’s without your participation. Help us to become bigger and better!
Financially, this site currently costs me about $10 per month to run, not to mention the countless man hours spent maintaining and improving the site. $10 may not seem like a lot, but with one income and and a small child to raise, it is very hard to justify, especially to my wife. Donations to the BGDF will basically go to an ‘appease the wife’ fund. Donations will go a long way to keeping her happy and will help keep the BGDF off the list of things to downsize. If you find it in your heart to donate to the BGDF financially, there are several ways to do this:

The first and probably easiest way to do this is to donate with PayPal. The suggested donation is $10, but $5 is good too. Of course, if you’d like to donate more, I won’t send it back =) .

Make payments with PayPal – it’s fast, free and secure!
Make payments with PayPal – it’s fast, free and secure!
If you do not have a paypal account, you can join by clicking the banner below. If you join with this method, the BGDF get’s $5 and you get $5 too. This is a great method for helping the BGDF because it doesn’t cost you anything and we both get $5 out of the deal.

I accept payment through PayPal!, the #1 online payment service!

If you want to send a ‘traditional’ donation, such as a check / money order, you can snail mail it to:

Finally, the last method is to sign up for a website from my provider, For every person I refer to them, I get one months free hosting. This is very good for the BGDF. They don’t have an automated referral plan, so be sure to mention that referred you to them. It also might be a good idea to e-mail me and let me know that you signed up with them so I can follow up on the referral. is a great value and they are a good host to use, especially if you want to run a PHP-Nuke site like BGDF.

The Board Game Designers Forum

The Board Game Designers Forum
The Board Game Designers Forum

Gen Con
Description: Gen Con is the largest gaming convention in North America. In 2002 they had 26,000 attendees. Roleplaying games, boardgames, CCGs, wargames, and just about everything else is represented. There are now 3 different Gen Cons: Gen Con Indy in Indianapolis, Indiana (after having been in Milwaukee, Wisconsin for most of its life), Gen Con Europe somewhere in Europe (London in 2003), and Gen Con SoCal in Anaheim, California.

Description: Origins is one of the largest game conventions in North America, offering every form of game experience from board games, trading card games and roleplaying games, to live action games, historical games and miniatures. In 2002 they had 11,000 attendees. It’s largest rival, Gen Con, is more focused on RPGs, so if you’re into boardgaming and you had to pick between the two, Origins is probably the way to go.

Description: Protospiel is an annual get-together of amateur game designers to test and promote nearly finished game prototypes. The atmosphere is casual, yet everyone is serious about their goals and dreams of publishing games. This years was from July 17th-20th in Lansing Michigan. You will have to wait until next year to attend this convention.

Toy and Games Inventors Forum
Description: A site created to support the Toy and Game Inventors Forum, an annual convention held in Las Vegas. This year it is being held from September 22-24. Prices are steep for this event; so probably only serious game developers looking to sell a finished product would be interested in attending.

Hi there! Welcome to my boardgames pages. From here you can access details of all the boardgames I own – and have got as far as adding to the site. In practice, that means about one half to two thirds of the boardgames I own are on this site, with the others in a long queue to get here…

The current count of games on the site is 139! – although only 20 are online yet…

Note: The site has just been through a couple of moves and a period where I have been unable to keep it online. It is now undergoing reconstruction so not all the links work yet. If you want to be kept up to date, click on the subscribe link below and I’ll send you an e-mail as parts get added. ūüôā

Lets go racing

lets go racing
lets go racing

The let`s go racing game.
This is a double sided racing game.

A laminated boardgame with horse racing on one side and greyhound racing on the other side.
This game is for age group 7 to adult and for 2-8 players. Price in the uk.

(£27-37including post packing insurance and next day delivery when possible.)look out too for the new features coming soon. trap and start cards. name and meeting sheets. new rule book.

ou play one version. Up comes SCARECROW 2. In this game you have to shoo the crows away and you just do not believe what those crows are doing to your crops.
A great educational game involving adding and subtraction.

This game is in the same box as scarecrow 1 and is printed on the reverse side. Great SCARECROW FUN. Welcome to Scarecrow 1,
The educational game where you build up your scarecrows. Beware the weather cards.

Just when you think you have your scarecrows made up,(A bolt of lightning could just burn it down).

MRP £28-00p uk price only.

watch out you crooks.The warden here works by the book.
Can you escape down the tunnel? will you be stuck in solitary for ever and a day?
could you be the lucky one to get set free early? The answers lie in the LONG STRETCH. Beware the sharks outside and inside.
MRP £28-00

Because we have 18 planned versions of this game. it is almost impossible to show the pictures for all of them. The twist and match game is an educational game for over 4 year olds going up to over 16 year olds.we also have an adult version which sadly we can not show because it`s too explicit. Normal twist and match games have an MRP

Where the bus stops is an educational game for 10yr olds upwards. with cards and money add money and bus routes and your into an exciting game for everyone. MRP £35-00


The new mingo game is an idea of bingo with 8 numbers on the playing card. With 13 different ways to play this game and only 50 numbers to play from, This game is going to be a SMASH.

Bausack Bandu Rules

Bausack Bandu Rules
Bausack Bandu Rules


These are rules for use with a Bandu or Bausack set of pieces. These rules, which are a variant of the Bandu rules, are more to the point. You get to play the pieces you want, and you get to make the game hard for the person you want.


Players build towers from pieces of dissimilarly shaped wood. Towers eventually become unstable and, when one more piece is added, collapse. The player with the remaining tower, after all others have collapsed, wins.


Place pieces at the center of table.
Players roll dice to determine order, reroll to break ties.
Each player starts with:
Foundation piece. Players, in dice order, select a piece from center of table to serve as the foundation. A player’s foundation piece is placed in front of the player, far enough away from other players’ foundation piece to keep from disrupting their towers.
Five beans.
Play begins with highest roll.
Game Play

Player selects piece from center of table.
Player does one of two things with the piece:
With one hand, add piece onto his foundation or onto another piece that was added earlier with his foundation piece at the bottom. Added pieces must not touch the table.
Give the piece to an opponent.
Game play continues to the player to the left of player who selected piece from center of table.
When a piece is given to a player, that player immediately must do one of two things:

With one hand, add piece onto his foundation or onto another piece that was added earlier with his foundation piece at the bottom. Added pieces must not touch the table.
Pay a bean from his pile of beans, and remove the bean from the game. Then give the piece to the player to his left. However, if the player has no beans, he must add the piece.

Zombies!!! Setup Variant

Zombies!!! Setup Variant
Zombies!!! Setup Variant

The idea of the game is to build up the neighborhood in which zombies chase you and the other players in the style of old zombies movies. I think the right length of time for each game should be about 30-45 minutes. That’s about right to get into the theme without it lasting long enough to drag.

This is a setup variant that works with the original rules and the Quick Play Rules. Doing this will both shorten the game and add a little variety to each game, especially when you add the Zombie Corps(e) expansion or the Mall Walkers expansion.

Note: these rules don’t work well combining all the expansions with the original game because you’ll remove too many tiles. Either pick one of them to use as a stand-alone game, or pick, at most, two of them. Either way, use the zombies, life and ammo counters and dice from the original game.

I’ll refer to three piles in this setup:

Pile A, called the remaining tiles (which will be put into play.)
Pile B, called the set-aside tiles.
Pile C, called the removed-from-game tiles.
Do this before following the rules for setting up the game:

Pile A contains all the tiles for the game. From Pile A, set aside (as Pile B) each unique named tiles, the town square and the helipad. This also means, if you have the Zombie Corps(e) expansion (in Pile A), set aside (onto Pile B) each unique named tile, the front gate and the helipad from the expansion.
If you have the Zombie Corps(e) expansion: Of the remaining tiles (Pile A), randomly pick tiles and remove them from the game (onto Pile C) without revealing them, until the number of tiles set aside and the number of remaining tiles (Piles A & B) totals 30.
Of the remaining tiles (Pile A), randomly pick two tiles per player and remove them from the game (onto Pile C) without revealing them. If you’re playing with the Zombie Corps(e) expansion, pick only one tile per player for this step.
The remaining tiles and the set aside tiles (Piles A & B) will be the draw pile(s) of tiles for the game.
As the winning condition, depending on the number of players, a player needs the number of zombies in the following table to win. This will both shorten the game and allows for having enough zombies to play the game out of the box. Also, this allows for the possibility of winning the game by way of zombies rather than by the more common way of helipad.

Players Zombies Needed to Win
If using the quick play rules, and you find you’re missing tiles needed for the last ten tiles in the draw pile, then just leave them out.

When a turn ends with no zombies on board, then the player whose turn ended gets to place ten zombies, as though the “We’re Screwed!” card was just played.

As an additional variant, set aside the named tiles that dead-end into the pile of remaining tiles for removing from the game (Pile C.) These tiles really interrupt the flow of the game. It’s no fun to back-track through empty streets. Also separate out the cards associated with buildings, and set them aside face-up. Then, when a player enters a building, they can automatically obtain the item for that building. This will prevent players from holding disappointing dead cards in their hands for buildings that were removed from the game.

As another variant, allow tiles to be placed adjacent to any other tile as long as it connects to at least one existing road. If you create a dead-end, make sure there is at least one open road out of the tile. I.e., newly placed tiles must be accessible, but they don’t have to match road-for-road. This will hopefully allow for more possibilites in placing T-intersection and crossroad tiles.

As another variant, if you have the Zombie Corps(e) expansion and the Glow-in-the-Dark Bag O’ Zombies, make all the zombies placed on army base tiles government enhanced zombies (killed on a roll of 5 and 6, double movement.)

Click here to purchase Zombies!!!

Board Game Session Report

Board Game Session Report
Board Game Session Report

SOG session. 5-player For Sale, 4-player New England, 6-player Sticheln, 6-player 6 Nimmt. Players were Chris, Josh, Sara, Don, myself. New players to the game were Sara, Don, myself.

Game Overview

This is a bidding card game with a realty theme.

Players start with twenty chips. Cards containing property are flipped. Each card has a value. The first player makes a starting bid. Each player then matches the bid, raises the bid, or drops out. When a player drops out, he gets the property at half his current bid.

After all the cards are played, a second deck with money values is dealt. All players secretly make a bid using their property cards and reveal them simultaneously. Highest property value gets the highest money value, and so on. This gets repeated until all the property is spent.

The winner is the player with the most money. Session Overview

What can I say? This is a light card game that we played before getting to the meatier games. Final scores were:

New England

Players were Lewis, Chris, Eric, myself. New players to the game were: Lewis, Chris, Eric, myself. Eric had the first turn.

Game Overview

New England is a resource-management tile-laying game with a historical New England theme.

Players choose a family name and place the rectangular tiles representing their three types of land on the game grid.

Then players take turns placing nine land tiles and development cards (at least three of each) for sale. Then players choose a bidding token which represents turn order (highest to lowest) and cost of tiles and cards.

Then, in turn order, players buy 0, 1 or 2 tiles and cards, and play them immediately. Land tiles are placed, undeveloped side up, next to the player’s tiles of the same time. Development cards are worth points if the given pattern can be developed; they also contain pilgrims worth extra income, ships which let the player flip an additional tile or card, and barns which let the player store a development card for later.

When there are no more tiles or cards to draw, the game ends and cards are scored.

Session Overview

Well, we were all clueless playing the game for the first time. I took the strategy of collecting money early, and buying land tiles cheaply. Lewis took advantage of whatever looked good at the time. Chris and Eric tried to balance purchases between everything.

In the end, I was winning, except that Lewis pulled a development card from storage to score ten points, shooting past my score.

This is a simple game to learn, with a little bit of thinking — a light strategy game. I’d play it again.

New England
Caption: Close to finishing the game of New England, Lewis will pounce.
Final scores were:


Players were Chris, Mark, Josh, Eric, Lewis, myself. New players to the game were: Chris, Mark, Eric, Lewis, myself.

Game Overview

This is a trick-taking card game.

There are six suits numbered 0 through 14. Each player is dealt a hand of cards. All players simultaneously choose a card to be their “pain-card.” The color of this card is bad — players normally score one point for each trick taken, but subtracts the value of each card in the color of the pain-card from the score.

Highest score wins after five hands.

Session Overview

I’m usually not big on card games and this is no exception. It’s novel to avoid the pain-card and screw other players when the opportunity comes up. Josh thinks this game is tricky with skilled players.

We played only two rounds. My second hand was nearly two-thirds red. The usual strategy is to make something you have four or five of as the pain-card, but I went with red. It turned out I was able to get rid of all my reds and not acquire any. I figured if I had all the reds and people play their reds, I could easily avoid getting burned taking red cards.

The second hand, many people played their zero cards as their pain cards with the hopes of avoiding subtracting the pain card from their score. That was silly, because it would be useful to have during the round to avoid picking up an unwanted hand.

I’d play this again, but it’s not engaging.

Final scores were:

6 Nimmt

Players were Chris, Mark, Josh, Eric, Lewis, myself.

Game Overview

This is a card game.

Each player is dealt a hand of cards. Each card has a number and a point value.

Four cards are dealt on to the table. These are the start of four rows.

Each player selects a card simultaneously, and reveals it. In numerical order, the cards are placed next to the row in which it’s higher than the highest value but lower than all the other rows. If the card is too low to be added to any row, the player takes a row of his choice and places his card in its place. If the card is the sixth card of the row, he takes the row and puts his card in its place.

When all the cards are played, the acquired cards are scored by adding the point values.

The game ends when a player reaches 66 points. A new hand is shuffled until the game ends.

The lowest score wins.

Session Overview

This game had a classic Chris-Vitas moment. At one point, there was a row of four cards with a 102 in it, so I selected my secret card with a 103 on it saying “This is the only chance to play this card.”

“Oh, you have the 104,” says Josh, “Wouldn’t it suck if someone played the 103?” (104 is the highest card in the game.)

Chris obviously didn’t pay attention to the exchange and played the 104, which won him that row of cards, after which I laughed heartily.